How India, Bangladesh, and Vietnam are redrawing global textile maps

While buying a T-shirt from an authorised retailer of a global sports brand in India, I noticed something curious—the label read Made in Bangladesh. The product was being sold in India, yet it was produced elsewhere. A similar experience struck me during my visit to Qatar in 2022 for the FIFA World Cup. At a supermarket, I wanted to pick up a few souvenir T-shirts to gift my friends back home in India. To my surprise, most of the shirts carried a Made in India tag. It felt rather odd to buy a “Made in India” T-shirt in Qatar only to gift it to friends in India. After some searching, I finally found a few T-shirts labelled Made in Turkey.

This isn’t an isolated observation. Years earlier, one of my college professors recounted how, during a trip to the US around 2010, he came across two nearly identical caps—yet one was priced significantly higher than the other. The only real difference? One cap carried a Made in USA label, while the other said Made in China. These experiences highlight a fascinating truth of global trade: no matter where you shop, the product in your hands may have been manufactured thousands of miles away.

Just as the UK dominates Scotch whisky exports, Norway leads in salmon, and China continues as the world’s largest textile exporter—followed closely by Bangladesh, Vietnam, Turkey, and India—global supply chains shape what we buy and where it comes from.

Clearly, textile production is no longer concentrated in a single geography. As Reto Hunziker, President-Europe at Chapman Freeborn, mentioned during an interview at Transport Logistics and Air Cargo Europe in Munich in June 2025, Bangladesh, Vietnam, and India have emerged as key complements to China in the textile trade.

According to Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association, Vietnam’s textile and garment sector recorded a sharp rebound in July 2025, with export turnover estimated at $ 4.45 billion—an 8.2% increase over June and 21% higher than the same month last year. For the first seven months, exports stood at USD 26.33 billion, up 9% compared to the same period in 2024, underscoring a strong recovery after a phase of slowdown.

However, this growth comes against significant challenges: rising competition from rival producers, stricter global demands for sustainable and eco-friendly standards, and uncertainty in the world economy and trade flows—most notably the US decision to impose a 20% reciprocal tariff on Vietnamese goods. How the industry adapts and innovates in response will be critical in determining its resilience going forward.

On the other hand, James Gilliard, Vice President Cargo Sales - Europe, Chapman Freeborn mentioned, “Historically, China dominated textile airfreight, accounting for about 70% of volumes versus 30% from South Asia and Southeast Asia. Since COVID, however, that balance has shifted closer to 60/40 in favor of India, Bangladesh, Vietnam, and Cambodia, as production footprints diversify.”

According to Gilliard, Bangladesh has seen the strongest growth, now a major source for global retailers. Vietnam contributes more to footwear and high-tech goods (north) and a mix of clothing/footwear (south). But, he also mentioned Cambodia is steadily expanding as manufacturing relocates. Further, “India and the subcontinent are increasingly important but remain rate-sensitive, relying heavily on ocean, sea-air (via Dubai World Central), and lower-deck lift, with full charters mainly in peak seasons (Oct–Nov),” added Gilliard.

In India’s case, cotton remains one of its most influential exports, with the country supplying fabrics and apparel to some of the most reputed foreign retailers and brands worldwide. Names like Tommy Hilfiger, Walmart, Levi Strauss, Macy’s, Metro Group, Nike, Reebok, Carrefour, Gap, H&M, JC Penney, and Marks & Spencer are among those sourcing from the Indian cotton industry, underscoring the country’s significance in the global textile supply chain.

For India, this is both a story of history and of present-day resilience. The country’s textile heritage stretches back millennia, from ancient cotton monopolies to today’s billion-dollar export economy.

Cotton: A legacy of centuries
India’s tryst with cotton dates back thousands of years. As per the Government of India, the subcontinent held a global monopoly on cotton manufacturing for nearly 3,000 years—from 1500 B.C. to 1500 A.D.—with cotton fabrics widely traded across Asia, Europe, and the Middle East, often serving as barter currency.

Today, India is the world’s largest cotton producer, contributing 23% of global output. Cotton production in 2024–25 is estimated at 302.25 lakh bales (170 kg each), following 32.5 million bales in 2023–24, 33.6 million in 2022–23, and 31.1 million in 2021–22. Total supply until September 2025 is projected at 357.44 lakh bales, with exports pegged at 18 lakh bales for the 2024–25 crop year.

India ranked as the third-largest exporter of raw cotton in 2022, with an 11% global share. Cotton exports were valued at $ 6.78 billion in FY24, rising to Rs 73,233 crore ($ 8.48 billion) in FY25 (till December 2024). Export volumes stood at 2.8 million bales in 2023–24 and 3.0 million in 2022–23.

Key buyers in FY25 included the United States (27% share), Bangladesh (21%), Sri Lanka, the UK, Germany and China. For yarn, China led imports in 2020–21 with 275 million kg, followed by Bangladesh (225 million kg), Vietnam (56 million kg), and Peru (53 million kg).

To support the sector, the Government of India has waived all customs duties on raw-cotton imports from 19 August to 30 September 2025, removing the 5% Basic Customs Duty, 5% Agriculture Infrastructure and Development Cess, and 10% Social Welfare Surcharge—an effective 11% duty relief.

The CBIC-notified decision aims to reduce input costs across yarn, fabric, garment, and made-up segments, ease supply constraints, and boost export competitiveness. Textile associations have welcomed the move for stabilising cotton prices, supporting SMEs, and providing relief to manufacturers and consumers.

Silk: An ancient thread woven into modern markets
If cotton represents India’s economic might, silk embodies its cultural and artisanal heritage. Sericulture in India dates back centuries, making the country one of the few in the world to produce all four commercial silk varieties—Mulberry, Tasar, Eri, and the rare golden-hued Muga silk, unique to Assam. Today, India is the world’s second-largest silk producer, with the sector employing nearly 9.76 million people across 52,500 villages.

In FY24, silk production stood at 38,913 tonnes, followed by 30,614 tonnes during April–December FY25. Exports were valued at $244.27 million in FY24, while April–December FY25 saw shipments worth $215 million. Karnataka remained India’s silk hub, contributing 32.3% of total output in FY24.

Fletcher Samuel, Senior Lead Cargo Business at Bangalore International Airport Limited (BIAL), highlighted the logistics dimension of this sector. He said, “BLR Airport is strategically located to serve South India’s textile and apparel clusters, including Tirupur and Coimbatore, making it a natural gateway for India’s fashion exports. By offering specialised handling, express cargo terminals, and India’s largest domestic cargo terminal, we are enabling faster time-to-market for high-value and fast-fashion products.”

Before textiles and garments can take off from BLR Airport, they must first reach the airport by road—underlining the importance of multimodal connectivity. DHL plays a crucial role here, not only moving textile shipments, e-commerce parcels, and fashion products by air but also enabling efficient road transport. Even though DHL did not comment directly on textile shipments, the company announced earlier this year an investment of €3.43 million in a new 17,900 sq. ft. service centre at the AISATS Bengaluru Logistics Park, expanding its footprint at the airport to over 130,000 sq. ft. Equipped with telescopic conveyors, wheel sorters, and logic-based sequencing, the facility is designed to cut processing times and boost throughput for future growth.

With regards to multimodal transport, Samuel pointed to BIAL’s initiative Logi-Connect: “Our flagship initiative, Logi-Connect, is a dedicated air–road multimodal logistics programme designed to streamline cargo movements from hinterland hubs directly to BLR Airport. With scheduled daily trucking services connecting key industrial clusters such as Tirupur, Coimbatore, Erode, and Ambur, exporters benefit from time-definite uplift to over 24 international destinations ex-BLR.”

“Textiles and apparel are one of the fastest-moving categories at BLR Airport. On average, we handle close to 690 metric tonnes every month, adding up to around 8,300 metric tonnes annually.”

Fletcher Samuel, Bangalore International Airport

He added, “Textiles and apparel are one of the fastest-moving categories at BLR Airport. On average, we handle close to 690 tonnes every month, adding up to around 8,300 tonnes annually. This represents nearly 5% of BLR Airport’s total export cargo throughput in FY25. While the percentage may seem modest, the category plays a crucial role in terms of frequency, value, and sensitivity.”

According to Samuel, the top five export destinations for textile shipments from BLR are New York (JFK), Chicago (ORD), Amsterdam (AMS), London Heathrow (LHR), and Frankfurt (FRA)—reflecting strong demand from both the U.S. and European fashion markets. On the import side, China’s Shenzhen (SZX) leads as the main source, supplying fabrics, trims, accessories, and semi-finished materials for India’s garment production.

India’s global textile trade prospects received a boost in July 2025 with the signing of the Comprehensive Economic and Trade Agreement (CETA) with the UK, granting zero-duty access to 99% of Indian exports. This move is expected to enhance competitiveness in one of India’s key overseas markets.

From the air chartering perspective, Chapman Freeborn plays an important role in connecting textile flows into Europe. Gilliard, the company’s Vice President – Cargo Sales Europe, explained: “The vast majority of textile cargo Chapman Freeborn moves into Europe consists of ready-made garments, as European manufacturing of garments has largely ceased. These are finished goods, ranging from high-turnover, lower-end fashion items destined for fast-fashion retailers, through to mid-tier brands.”

Gilliard also pointed out that while a smaller share of luxury shipments move into Europe, much of the high-end finishing remains centered in Italy. Beyond Europe, there are also flows of raw materials from India into China and Vietnam for further production, though these are regional rather than Europe-bound.

Chapman Freeborn also uses airports strategically located near textile hubs across Asia. Gilliard noted, “The main airports we use for textile and apparel shipments in Asia are Hanoi (HAN), Dhaka (DAC), and Chennai (MAA), chosen because they are located close to major production centers, which helps streamline supply chains and reduce transit times.” The company is also eyeing new opportunities in Cambodia with the opening of Phnom Penh’s new airport.

Regional competition also shapes trade flows. A significant portion of Bangladesh’s textiles once moved through India for uplift via Kolkata or Delhi airports, but restrictions introduced earlier this year have ended that model. Instead, Bangladeshi exporters increasingly rely on Dhaka Airport for direct exports, as also highlighted by the Chapman Freeborn spokesperson.

“From our key hubs in Asia (Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, and India) Chapman Freeborn handles approximately 1,200 tonnes of textile and apparel exports annually on our operated charters. ”

James Gilliard, Chapman Freeborn

In terms of trade policy, Bangladesh recently secured relief from the United States, which reduced tariffs on its apparel exports to 20%—down from the initially proposed 37%. This aligns Bangladesh’s rate with other exporters such as Sri Lanka, Vietnam, Pakistan, and Indonesia. By contrast, India, which has yet to conclude a deal with Washington, will face a higher 25% tariff, putting its exporters at a relative disadvantage in the U.S. market despite progress with the UK.

Textile exports in 2025: Signs of resilience
Despite global trade headwinds, India’s textile and apparel exports have held steady. According to an official release by the Directorate General of Commercial Intelligence & Statistics (DGCIS), exports of major textile commodities stood at $3.10 billion in July 2025, a 5.37% rise over July 2024. For April–July 2025, cumulative exports stood at $12.18 billion, up 3.87% from the same period last year.

Even for Bangalore Airport, readymade garments dominate the textile and apparel cargo segment. Samuel noted, “For us, ready-made garments dominate our textile and apparel cargo profile. This includes both fashion apparel and utility wear, destined for global retail chains and e-commerce platforms. The prominence of ready-made garments is natural, given their time-sensitive nature, buyers in the US and Europe often operate on ‘fast fashion’ cycles, where lead times are short and demand fluctuations are frequent. Air freight plays a critical role in bridging this demand, helping Indian exporters meet order timelines while ensuring that goods reach store shelves and online distribution centres in sync with international retail calendars.” Interestingly, IATA classifies textile as general cargo and doesn’t need any special handling.

Gilliard observed that volumes are highly seasonal, peaking ahead of summer and winter demand, but fast fashion has created a more consistent, year-round uplift. “Operationally, Chapman Freeborn supports these movements with a range of aircraft, from smaller types such as A330s to full 747 freighter charters. On average, we move the equivalent of five to six 747 loads per month, translating to 500–600 tonnes of garments monthly, not including the significant additional uplift tied to the fast-growing e-commerce segment, which also includes textiles and apparel. From our key hubs in Asia (Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, and India) Chapman Freeborn handles approximately 1,200 tonnes of textile and apparel exports annually on our operated charters,” added Gilliard.

As the industry gears up for its $100 billion export target by 2025–26, the “Made in India” label will continue to travel far and wide. And just as a shopper in Qatar or New York may unknowingly buy Indian-made apparel, India’s legacy in textiles will remain deeply stitched into the fabric of global commerce. Adding to that, BIAL’s Samuel added, “Looking ahead, our vision is to be the most preferred cargo gateway in India. Growth opportunities are especially strong in Europe and the UK, with Free Trade Agreement (FTA) discussions underway. An FTA with the UK and the EU could significantly reduce trade barriers, giving Indian apparel exporters an edge in these high-value markets. BLR Airport is positioning itself to capture this momentum with investments in infrastructure, technology, and global connectivity.”